Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Want craft and beauty product making tutorials? Please answer!

Source.
I'm studying Textiles full time and I know a lot of crafting techniques such as paper making, knitting by hand and machine, weaving by hand and machine, dyeing anything possible, machine and hand embroidery, how to screen print fabric, heat transfer, use a sewing machine...shit I know too much.


So I was wondering if any of my followers would be interested in learning through tutorials? For example I would create a post on how to print your own designs onto t-shirts using a screen or maybe show you how to make your own lavender bags. Also, I make my own beauty products so I could create tutorials for bath bombs and foot scrubs etc, would anyone be intrigued by that? 


I'm only asking because this is a Goth specific blog and I'm unsure whether anyone would be interested in home made beauty products and crafting. Please use the poll to answer or use the comment box below to make suggestions..or show me cats and tell me about your day :D

Monday, 19 December 2011

The Ultimate Guide To Bleaching Your Hair.

Source.
Buying a bleach kit.
Quite simply your bleach kit should contain a powder and peroxide, also known as the developer. But you need to check the strength of the peroxide before buying it, basically:


10+ if your hair is already light but you need to remove yellow tones.
20+ if your hair is light to medium brown.
30+ if your hair is dark.
40+ if your using it to tip dye your hair, it's far too strong to risk putting near your scalp and I don't recommend using this at home.


If the box doesn't contain an instruction leaflet I would put it back on the shelf and back away.


A bleach kit:
  • A bleach kit, obviously.
  • Hair clip.
  • A bowl to mix in.
  • A dye brush.
  • Old towel.
  • Old shirt.
  • Timer.
  • Latex gloves.
  • A plastic cap.
What technically is bleaching?
In the simplest terms possible it's a chemical that removes colour or lightens hair because it reacts with the melanin in the hair, it's an irreversible chemical reaction so please don't take bleaching your hair lightly. 

How adorable! Source.
How many times will I have to bleach?
Depends on the colour of your hair and the volume of the pexoride.


If you've got black hair I recommend two applications of 30 volume but you must leave at least a week in between them, even 30 volume can be harsh on skin so please be careful. Volume 40 is too harsh to use, end of. Don't even attempt this, I'm talking chemical burns here so leave it to the professions. Black has a lot of pigment and that's why it takes more time and effort to bleach your hair to a pale blonde shade. If it's a permanent dye then you might have to deal with the orange or even red patches that can occur, patience really is key when you're trying to remove black from your hair. Personally I recommend seeing a professional but I guess that's not why you're read this eh? Well if you're worried it won't work and can't deal with patches you could always try using a colour remover beforehand and bleaching until it's pale blonde then using a white toner to finish, of course this will take more time and patience but it's worth it in the long run.


Dark brown hair and deep redheads should use 30 volume, you might end up with orangy patches but you only need to reapply bleach to that area. Anything from light brown to medium blonde should use 20 volume in order to get a pale blonde shade, however this hair shade does specifically need a strand test. Sometimes it takes less sometimes it takes more. 


Gray to white blonde should use 10 volume or possibly dilute a 20 volume, but strand test first to see whether it's strong enough. Obviously a volume this low won't cause as much damage but you'll still need to check the instruction for timing, if you're diluted it I recommend ten minutes then shampooing it out. 

Allergies and testing.

A strand test is easily done, just snip off a section of your hair and put an elastic band around the roots. Create the mixture and soak the hair in it, if you planned to use a 30 volume then use a 30 volume or if you planned to leave it on for ten minutes then try that. This is perfect for making sure everything will work out as planned, hopefully you won't have to change anything but if you did at least you know now.


You can develop an allergic despite regular use and it's not unheard of so do a strand test 24 hours before applying all over. It's possible that the bleach could cause blistering or even burns to your scalp so be careful. The bleach can also have a bad reaction with chlorine so swimmmers beware. An uncomfortable tingling sensation on the scalp is normal but it ever turns into burning you need to rinse with cool water as soon possible and seek medical attention. If you're planning to dye over your bleach check the ingredients for metallic dye components which damage your hair if they're mixed other chemical process. 


Source.
Mixing.
The developer comes in several amounts of volume up to 40 and which one you can use depends on how light you need your hair to be. If you're doing all this by hand or can't get hold of your box just mix until it has a thick texture and doesn't run off your brush. If you've mixed it too much and it's gone all runny add more powder. Please note that thick bleach dries much faster so apply as soon as possible.


Applying.

Please don't shampoo your hair clean beforehand, it's not necessary and the oils will help protect your scalp. Section your hair using hair clips to make it easier to apply the bleach evenly. Wrap a towel around your shoulders and neck, don't forget the gloves. If you're applying the bleach by yourself I recommend sitting in front of a mirror with another mirror behind you.


Apply the bleach to your hair downwards using a dye brush, evenly and quickly. Don't apply it directly to the scalp and only apply a thin layer near the roots because the heat from your scalp will quicken the process. Depending on the thickness of your hair and the sections you created you might need to reapply another thin layer or twist the section around so it's completely covered. It's very important that it's done quickly and evenly so your hair lightens evenly and at the same pace.


You can put on a shower cap afterwards if you want to, just make sure to take it off when you colour check. Now set a timer!


The Process.
When you've applied your bleach you still need to regularly check the colour and your timer. Bleach keeps on working until you wash it off or it dries so pay attention to your scalp so you don't over process it. This part gets quite boring so read a magazine or better yet grab a friend.

It should get lighter as the process goes on for example if you had black hair it should go from black, brown, dark red, red, orange, yellow, blonde yellow then to light blonde. Don't worry if it's not following this exact trail, it's the result that matters and as long as you know you've done everything right don't worry.

When the timer goes off or when you're satisfied with the colour go rinse the bleach off with water and finish by using a mild shampoo and a good conditioner. Leave it to dry naturally and don't brush it while it's wet.


Source.
Damage.
Bleaching does damage the existing hair but doesn't prevent your hair from growing. Nothing you put directly onto the hair will stop it growing and technically bleach doesn't kill hair in a literal sense. If it's your first time bleaching you're probably going to be okay, change your hair treatments to suit coloured or damaged hair and always use a conditioner.


If you notice any signs of damage such as breakage, rough texture, matt when wet or the colour fades quickly you could have damaged hair. If you're unsure whether the hair has naturally fallen out then check for a "bulb" at the root of the hair and check your hairbrush for newer build up. A more severe level of damage is shown by sponginess when your hair is wet and obviously severely damaged hair is immediately obvious, sadly this requires intense treatment and you always need to be careful. It's best to cut off the worse of the damage but if this isn't an option then treat your hair very gently from now on.


Don't believe the product selling lines that claim to cure your damage, the treatments available today help protect the hair and make it feel softer but they can't literally take back the damage. Seriously you will not wake up with Goddess hair.  Choose a protein conditioner and leave it on for a few minutes and put on a hair treatment once a week for 20 minutes plus, also after washing your hair use a light leave-in conditioner. If your hair is seriously damaged you could consider using weekly treatments as a regular conditioner. Avoid heat styling, dyeing, more chemical processes etc as until necessary. Always consult your hairdresser if it gets beyond your control, they won't judge you.


The best way to keep your hair healthy is preventation so don't get lazy about hair care. The delicate ends of your hair are the most fragile part of shaft because they're the oldest and probably driest part of your hair, they're prone to break off from everyday stress such as brushing your hair. Your hair is particularly vulnerable when it's wet so use a wide toothed comb to create a parting and avoid brushing through when it's completely wet.


Any advise to share or questions?

Thursday, 15 December 2011

What defines the subculture? Also known as the Great Goth Debate.

Source.
Sorry I had to repost this, there was an error.

Also known as the Great Goth Debate, it's basically asking what defines the subculture. It's quite infamous among Goths, it has the ability to create arguments and before you know it someone has called another Goth "Poseur".

I think there's certain factors that should leave our debate, for example non Goths and money. Money shouldn't define our subculture, for example yes you spend more on clothes than you do downloading music but it's actually about passion. Money has enough power as it is. Non-goths aren't Goth and generally don't have knowledge of the subculture, just because one occasionally yells "GOOFF" at someone in black doesn't mean they understand.

Is it music?
Without the Goth music genre the subculture may not even exist, I think it would eventually piece together but not as quickly and it wouldn't be the same. Also, it needs to be pointed out that you don't just listen to Goth music otherwise there's plenty of unsuspecting "goths" walking around. You have to actually like, enjoy and be passionate about the music. Goth music has the power to lift and even lower my mood, it creates stories and my imagination flows when I listen. We dress up for concerts and interact with other Goths there, it basically brought us all together in the beginning and still does today. We do spent less time downloading music than creating a Goth wardrobe but I'm unsure whether time should be a factor in defining our subculture either. Less time spent doesn't necessarily equal less passion?

Is it fashion?
As you don't just listen to Goth music, you don't just simply pull on black clothes and fishnets. The fashion is a major part of my life, I spend hours customising my new pieces and browsing vintage shops for that perfect jacket. So yes it's true that collecting a Goth wardrobe takes more time and money but again I'd rather focus on my passion for it. I spent lots of time on my gothic clothes because they mean something to me and I want them to reflect my effort. However the fashion also has an interesting way of bringing us all together as the music does, before a night out I spend hours with my friends getting ready and changing outfits. The way we dress is a massive visual clue to others that we're Goths, although I have yet to meet another Goth in the streets I'm betting it's the way I dress that would attract them (unless they've got bat like hearing and can tune into my iPod) if I did.

Could something else be the driving force? Such as an attitude?
There's several reasons why attitude doesn't define the subculture in my opinion, one being that the subculture is far more than an attitude. Another is because I refuse to believe it's possible for a whole subculture of people to think alike and behave the same. Although we do have common interests and plenty of hobbies that are associated with the subculture. This is the only "definition" of Goth I get quite hot under the collar about, when a person insists the subculture is an attitude it feels like they're suggesting I should behave a certain way. We're all individuals that have come together because of our love for the music, fashion and common interests not because we behave alike.

There was no "internal feeling" to tell me I was Goth either, I simply learnt about the subculture and realised that based on my music taste and dress sense that I was. Perhaps it's because I'm so unemotional towards this matter that I find it difficult to undertstand people think it's an outlook on life. Personally I think it's a bit of music and fashion, a subculture doesn't have to be defined by only one thing.

Feel free to share your own opinion!

Thursday, 8 December 2011

What to do when gothic fashion becomes popular.


Source.
Every 2 years or so while I'm browsing through Vogue I find that "Goth" has entered the fashion world and I've never heard a problem with it previously, it usually gets watered down by high street shops until it's a simple velvet shift dress. Velvet, lace and leather nearly always appear in shops every Winter, again this doesn't affect me although sometimes I cringe at the cheap lace. But one has bothered recently, it's that...hipster Goth look.

At first I admired the minimal look but after several girls in my college started following the trend and making comments about my own outfits I'm starting to resent it. I first observed this style on Tumblr and it's since spread into the street snapping section of magazines and fashion trend blogs. I keep attracting comments about how I dress which infuriates me considering their own style is inspired by my subculture's fashion, they would know that if they wasn't trend hopping bimbos.

And breath *phew*. I hope I'm not being unreasonable and you won't judge me for getting bristly about the subject. I have strangers demanding to know where I got my DARLING VINTAGEY velvet blazer and wrongly thinking we're wearing the same skirt even though mine is handmade. Plus I have this tiny silly fear another Goth will mistake me for one and snub me. Which is ridiculous considering I've never met another Goth on the streets and I would never dress similar to a Hipster Goth.

I'm simply ignoring the issue now, it's not worth shitting bats over for several reasons:
  • Fashion can change in a matter of months, wait a year and you won't see any gawfix trendy people swanning around.
  • It's unlikely you'll meet one that offends you, the one that makes comments about my outfits at college actually only dresses like that once a week and she's easily ignored. 
  • People who follow trends are aware that it won't last forever so they usually choose key pieces and incorporate them into their wardrobe, consequently they don't look like they're trying to be Goth.
  • When shops create their own range they predict trends and use inspiration from designers, it's much more watered down and quite unlike a typical gothic wardrobe.
  • The "Chic Goth" articles are usually quite funny, although sometimes they do offer good advise and point out a new black varnish I haven't tried yet.
  • My silly fear of being mistaken for a trend hopper is an irrational one, they never look entirely comfortable in their outfit and it shows. Besides a lot of trend followers are creative and merely use it as inspiration for their own unique outfits.
 If a well meaning person stops and asks you where you got your jacket from just tell them, or if you can't be bothered just mention a nearby Charity shop and quickly make your escape (lying yes but it helps charity so shush). Sometimes I lie and say I've had it for years just to see the look of surprise on their faces, it's quite funny that they don't realise Goths have being dressing similarly before they was born. If you should find yourself still squirming at the idea of Non-Goths rubbing up against velvet just breathe, and reread the reasons above. Or just cut yourself a piece of cake like I do.

Monday, 5 December 2011

Vintage items to look out for.


“At The Races” photo by Nina Leen, 1945.
Vintage items are amazing items you just can't find in your nearest high street or alternative shop, they give you an unique edge and they're actually cheaper sometimes. For example vintage bloomers are cheaper than bloomers created by someone else following a pattern or on a machine.
  • Bloomers and petticoats, cheap and easy to customise.
  • Parasols, expensive but full of detail. You'll most likely parasols that are for decoration only, this simply means they can be displayed not used. You could take them to a Craftmans to see what can arranged, it's usually just the spoke that's rusted or broken so the fabric can be removed.
  • Capes and capelets are a great alternative to a coat.
  • Waistcoats are easy to find but the most common ones are colourful and patterned ones from the seventies, you could possibly dye some of them or save your time and money for a much older waistcoat.
  • Chatelaines were usually designed to be attached to a belt and carried a mini version of anything a vintage woman would have needed (eg mini sewing scissors and keys) from a chain.

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